The Best Knots to Tie Rappel Ropes Together

If you’re out climbing and need to rappel, either from the top of the route you just climbed or to bail off before a thunderstorm moves in, then you often need to tie two ropes together to get down. Double-rope rappels get you down faster and farther, especially if you are using two 200-foot (60-meter) ropes, so you can get out of danger from lightning and also so you leave less gear for rappel anchors at each stance or ledge if there are no fixed anchors.

 The double figure-8 fishermans knot is the best knot to tie two ropes together for rappelling.

Rappelling is Dangerous

Rappelling is one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing. More accidents occur rappelling than any other climbing activity except lead climbing. When you’re rappelling off a cliff, you’re relying solely on your equipment—on your rope, on your rappel device, on your harness, and on the anchors that your rope is threaded through. Besides having perfect bombproof anchors, you need to tie your ropes together with a strong knot that will support your weight while rappelling and won’t come untied.

4 Best Knots for Rappel Ropes

The following four best knots are the best ones for tying your rappel ropes together:

1. Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot This knot, the usual way to tie rappel ropes together, is the strongest of the bunch and, if properly tied, will not come undone. It’s also easy to visually check to make sure it is properly tied. It’s usually not difficult to untie after being weighted. This is the best knot to tie ropes of unequal diameters, that is a thin rope and thick rope, together. The knot’s biggest disadvantage is its bulk, so the chances that it might jam in a crack while you’re pulling the rappel ropes are increased.
   
   
2. Square Fisherman’s Knot A lot of climbers like this knot because it’s easy to tie and the easiest of these four knots to untie. It’s basically just a square knot backed up with double fisherman’s knots on either side. If you use this knot, always use the backup knots or risk it coming untied. A square knot alone is never a good knot for rappelling or any other climbing purpose.
   
   
3. Double Overhand Knot This knot, sometimes called the “European Death Knot,” has gained popularity and is often used to tie ropes together. It is the fastest and easiest of these four knots to tie and has the least bulk, which makes it less likely to snag and stick your rope. Do not use this knot with ropes of varying diameters, since at least one fatal accident has occurred from it coming untied. Alternatively you can tie a double figure-8 knot instead of the overhand knot, although testing at Black Diamond’s lab in Salt Lake City indicates that the double overhand is stronger than the double figure-8.
   
   
4. Double Fisherman’s Knot This is the traditional knot to tie two ropes together but has generally fallen out of favor for the above knots. It can be difficult to check visually and is often difficult to untie after being weighted, particularly if the ropes are wet. This knot is best used for tying thin pieces of accessory cord like Spectra together for anchors or slinging nuts like Hexentrics.

Know the Knots Before Using Them

These four knots are all strong and safe, but they must, of course, be tied correctly. Learn to tie these knots on the ground or at home and know them backwards and forwards before you attempt to tie them on a climb at the rappel anchors—your life depends on the knot being properly tied. All these knots, except the double overhand knot, are backed up with fisherman’s knots for safety on either side.

Use a Stopper Knot

Also when you’re rappelling, always tie a stopper knot, which is a double fisherman’s knot, overhand knot, or figure-8 knot, at the ends of both ropes so that you or your partner won’t rappel off the loose ends of the rope.

Pick One Knot and Use It

It’s best to pick one knot that you like and just use it every time you tie rappel ropes together. If you use one knot for rappelling, you become intimately familiar with that knot—you know how to tie it; you know how to untie it; you know how much of a tail to leave at each end to tie the fisherman’s backup knots. I have always used the Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot because it feels like the safest knot to me. I like to feel totally secure when I’m rappelling, particularly if it’s a scary rappel off a slender desert spire or down a big wall. Experiment at a small crag and decide which rappel knot is right for you.

Use Stopper Knots

It’s always instructive to read accident reports in the annual Accidents in North American Mountaineering book, published by The American Alpine Club, which analyzes many climbing accidents from the previous year. Every year there are many accidents and fatalities attributed to rappelling off the ends of ropes, anchor failure, and incorrectly loading the rope in the rappel device. One of the accidents detailed in the 1997 book offers reasons why it’s a good idea to always tie stopper knots in your rappel ropes.

 Always tie stopper knots to keep from rappelling off the ends of your ropes.

Woman Rappels in Torrential Storm

On May 23, 1997 a man and woman, climbing on Pywiak Dome at Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park, were caught in a lightning storm at the top of their second pitch. The woman, who had been climbing for 13 years, went first, rappelling on two ropes tied together and whose ends were uneven in length and did not have stopper knots tied in them. She ended up a little short of the next rappel station, a ledge at the end of Dike Route’s first pitch that is 200 feet off the ground. So she reached down to grab the next rap slings but the rope tails slipped through her brake hand and then her rappel device. She tumbled eight feet onto the ledge and rolled off toward certain death.

Miracle Saves Falling Climber

“Miraculously,” the report reads, “the woman managed to throw an arm onto the ledge to check an inevitable grounder, a move she later attributed to thoughts of her children.” Then her partner evened the ropes, rappelled to her, fixed the ropes to the ground, and both rappelled in pouring rain to the cliff base.

Bad Weather Leads to Bad Judgment

Besides being unprepared for storms and keeping an eye on the weather so they could retreat before the thunderstorm moved in, the climbers “neglected to locate the rope’s center, to knot the ends, and/or to use a ‘hands free’ backup, with almost tragic results.” The couple, dressed in shorts and t-shirts, were ill-prepared for the violent weather. The accident analysis concludes: “Even on a short route, sodden ropes, violent wind, cold rain, and haste induced by mild hypothermia can be dangerous factors working against the retreating climber.”

Lessons Learned from the Accident

The lessons learned from this incident are:

• Tie stopper knots in the ends of both rope strands.
• Make sure the rappel ropes are even by finding the middle of the rope.
• Use an autoblock knot as a safety back-up.
• Come prepared for bad weather.
• Begin your retreat and rappel before a storm moves in.

Stopper Knot

A stopper knot is a knot that is tied into both ends of a rappel rope so that a climber doesn’t rappel off the ends of the rope, which is a common cause of rappelling accidents and fatalities.

A stopper knot is an important climbing knot tied in the ends of a rappel rope. 

Double Fisherman’s Knot Best

The best stopper knot is a double fisherman’s knot tied in each rope end.

Bulky Stopper Knots

Some climbers prefer to tie a more bulky knot like a figure-8-on-a-bight, clipping a carabiner into each loop so it doesn’t come untied. The bulky knot is essential if you’re rappelling with a figure-8 descender so the knot and end of the rope won’t slip through the rappel device. The knots are either tied into the end of each separate strand of rope or into both strands together.

Double Overhand Knot

The Double Overhand Knot is a popular and easy-to-tie knot used to tie two ropes together for rappelling. It has less bulk than other rappel knots like the double figure-8 fisherman’s knot so it is less likely to get stuck in cracks when you pull your rappel ropes. Never use this knot with ropes of different diameters since at least one fatal accident has occurred when the thinner rope worked out of the knot. Alternatively you can tie a double figure-8 knot instead of the overhand knot, although testing at Black Diamond’s Salt Lake City lab, after an accident in Zion National Park in 2003 when a climber fell 200+ feet after his double figure-8 came untied, indicates that the double overhand is stronger than the double figure-8 knot.

Square Fisherman’s Knot

The Square Fisherman’s Knot is used to tie two ropes together for rappelling. It’s basically a square knot backed up with double fisherman’s knots on either side. If you use this knot, always use the backup knots or risk it coming untied. A square knot alone is never a good knot for rappelling or any other climbing purpose.

 A square fisherman's knot is used to tie two ropes together for rappelling.

Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot

The Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot is one of the best knots to use to tie to ropes together for top-roping and rappelling. It’s a very strong knot and, if properly tied, won’t come undone. It’s also a good knot to use if you are tying ropes of unequal diameters together.

 The double figure-8 fishermans knot is the best knot to tie 2 ropes together for rappelling and rock climbing.

Use a Prusik Knot - 5

Besides ascending a rope, a Prusik knot is also useful as a rappel back-up knot and for self-rescue and escaping a belay.

Prusik Knot as Rappel Back-Up Knot

Prusik knots are sometimes used as a rappel back-up knot either below or above your rappel device. It is better, however, to use the Autoblock knot for a back-up since it is easier to tie and untie and runs more smoothly as you rappel. The Prusik knot can snag and tighten while you’re rappelling, making it difficult to loosen and slide down the rope.

Use a Prusik Knot for Self-Rescue

Prusik knots are ideal for self-rescue situations where you need to escape from your belay anchors in an emergency situation. For example, Joe and you are climbing a big route in Yosemite Valley. He falls and becomes incapacitated due to a head injury. You can’t lower him to the ground since you’re 600 feet off the ground. What do you do?

• The first thing you have to do is to escape from the belay so you can render assistance.
• You hold Joe’s rope in your belay device with one hand.
• You tie a Prusik knot on Joe’s rope with your free hand.
• You attach the free end of the Prusik knot to your anchors with a locking carabiner.
• Now you are able to transfer Joe’s weight onto the Prusik knot and the fixed anchors rather than have it on your harness and belay device.
• You are now free to Prusik up to Joe and give first aid or go for help.

Use a Prusik Knot - 4

The Problem With Prusik Knots

The big problem with Prusik knots is that they can grip the rope so tightly that they are difficult to release and slide up the rope, whereas the Klemheist knot and Bachmann knot are easier to release. If your Prusik knot is too tight to push, loosen it by pushing the center loop or tongue into the knot.

 A climber uses a Bachmann knot (top) and Prusik knot (bottom) for ascending a fixed rope.

Ascending a Fixed Rope

Most of the time climbers will use mechanical ascenders to climb ropes, especially on big walls. But two Prusik knots, used in tandem with one for the right hand and one for the left, are the best way to ascend a fixed rope in an emergency. Many climbers will use another friction knot like a Klemheist knot or Bachmann knot in tandem with a single Prusik knot since the Prusik, as noted above, can tighten up. The top Prusik cord is attached to the belay loop on the front of your harness while the other cord is attached to a longer sling for one of your feet. Some climbers prefer to attach both Prusik slings to the harnesses as well as have foot slings for each foot. Either way you need to remember to always tie into the end of the rope. Never trust your life to a Prusik knot.

Basic Prusikking Technique

The basic technique of Prusikking is to weight the bottom Prusik knot by standing up in your foot sling. Now slide the barrel of the top Prusik knot up the climbing rope until it’s tight against your harness. Sit down in your harness, tightening the knot and allowing it to bite into the rope. Next, hang from the top knot and slide the lower Prusik knot up the rope until its cord is tight against you. Repeat the process and you’re on your way up the rock. It is not, however, as easy as it sounds. Practice using it first at a small local cliff. Learn how long the cords to your waist and for your foot sling should be.

Use a Prusik Knot - 3

Third Step to Tie a Prusik Knot

The third step to tie a Prusik knot is to bring the loop of cord back through the girth hitch on the climbing rope two to three more times, forming a barrel with the tail of the cord hanging out from the middle. This is simply done by wrapping the loop of cord through the inside of each previous wrap. After you’re done wrapping the rope, tighten the knot and dress it by carefully arranging all the wraps of cord so they’re next to each other and not crossed.
How many wraps of cord you put on the knot is up to you. Usually three is sufficient. The more wraps you put on, the more the Prusik knot will cinch onto the climbing rope. It’s best, especially if you haven’t used a Prusik knot much, to test the knot by weighting it. If it slips, add another wrap. If it’s too hard to push up the rope, take away a wrap. If you leave the knot a bit loose, it is easier to slide up the rope.

you wrap the loop of cord around the rope two or three more times.

Use a Prusik Knot - 2

Second Step to Tie a Prusik Knot

The second step to tie a Prusik knot is to take the loop of cord behind the climbing rope and bring half of the loop through the other half of the loop and form a girth hitch. A girth hitch is a basic knot for attaching a sling or cord to any object, including a tree, piece of climbing gear, or, in this case, the climbing rope. Note that the knot in the small cord is on the outside of the hitch.

 The second step is the make a girth hitch with the thin cord on the climbing rope.

Use a Prusik Knot - 1

The Prusik knot is a friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord. When a climber’s weight is loaded onto the knot, it tightens and cinches onto the rope. Prusik knots, commonly used in pairs or with another friction knot like a Klemheist knot or Bachmann knot, allows the climber to ascend a fixed rope by sliding the knot up the rope.

 Put the loop of thin cord behind the fixed climbing rope.

When to Use a Prusik Knot

Prusik knots are primarily used by climbers in emergency situations when it is necessary to ascend a fixed rope. These situations include lending aid to an injured climber above, ascending up an overhanging face after falling, or extricating oneself after falling into a glacial crevasse. Every climber needs to know how to tie a Prusik knot. With practice it can be easily tied with one hand, a good skill for emergencies.

Make 2 Loops of Cord

To tie a Prusik knot you need what climbers call “Prusik slings,” which are two lengths of thin cord (preferably 5mm or 6mm in diameter). The thinner the cord is in relation to the thickness of the climbing rope, the greater the ability of the knot to cinch onto the rope. It’s best to make the Prusik slings about two feet long, although some climbers like having one of the slings longer. Buy a five-foot length of thin nylon cord that is specifically made for climbing. Avoid buying spectra cord since it can melt if the knot slips. Tie the ends together with a double-fisherman’s knot, forming a closed loop.

First Step to Tie a Prusik Knot

The first step to tie a Prusik knot is to take the loop of cord and place it behind the main climbing rope.

Use an Autoblock Knot - 5

You’ve threaded the rappel ropes through your device, tied the autoblock knot and attached it to a carabiner on your leg loop. You’re now ready to rappel with the autoblock as a safety back-up.

2 Ways to Hold the Knot

Before you rappel, make sure the autoblock is loose on the ropes so that it slides easily. Put your brake hand, the one that keeps you in control, below the autoblock knot and grasping the rappel ropes. Put your guide hand on top of the knot below the rappel device and begin rappelling. Or place your brake hand on the knot and use your guide hand above the device. Either way works fine. Try it both ways and decide which you prefer.

Let the Knot Slide on the Ropes

As you rappel, let the knot slide with your hand keeping it loose. If you want to stop, simply let go of the knot and let it cinch onto the ropes. Make sure you let go of the knot if you need to stop. Novices have died by gripping the knot, which slips on the rope and melts. Let go and let the knot lock.

Avoid Having Your Knot Jam

Make sure that the cord or sling that forms the autoblock knot is not too long. If it is too long, the knot can jam in your rappel device when you stop, which will cause you all kinds of headaches as you work to free it from the device. Avoid problems by making sure the sling is short enough before rappelling. If it’s too long, tie a knot in the end of the sling to shorten it or extend the rappel device from your harness by attaching it to a sling.

 Here's how your autoblock knot and rappel device should look when you're ready to rappel.

Get in the Habit of Using the Autoblock

Get in the habit of always using the autoblock whenever you rappel. When I've climbed in Norway, every climber used an autoblock when they rappelled. In France, the Chamonix guides use the knot when they rappel. But in the US it’s rare that I see climbers use it. Pretty dumb, since it takes 30 seconds to tie, is easy to use, and it can save your life.

Use an Autoblock Knot - 4

The second step to tie an autoblock knot, after wrapping the cord around the rappel ropes, is to clip both ends of the cord into the locking carabiner on your harness leg loop. Then lock the carabiner so the cord can’t come undone from it. Finally, dress the knot by arranging all the wraps so they’re neat and not crossed. Make sure the knot is not tightened or cinched down on the ropes so that it slides easily as you rappel.

 Finish tying the autoblock knot by clipping both ends into a locking carabiner.

Make Sure The Knot Won’t Jam

It’s very important to check the knot before you use it by making sure that the length of cord or sling is not too long after being tied to the rappel ropes. First, check that your autoblock knot cinches onto the rope when it’s weighted. Next, check that the sling is not so long that it will jam in the rappel device when it’s weighted. If you’re using a short sling that is no longer than two feet then it shouldn’t be a problem if your rappel device is attached to your belay loop and the knot is attached to your leg loop. Double check to make sure though. If the sling or cord is too long and it jams in the rappel device then it will lead to all kinds of problems when you’re rappelling. If it is too long, then use a sling on your belay loop to extend the distance that the rappel device is from your harness and the knot.

Use an Autoblock Knot - 3

The first step to tie an autoblock knot is to clip a carabiner, preferably a locking one, onto the leg loop of your harness. Clip it on the side where your brake hand will be.

 First, wrap the cord or sling several times around the rappel rope.

Wrap the Cord Around the Rope

Next wrap your autoblock cord four or five times around the rappel ropes.

More Wraps Equal More Friction

Use up most of the cord on the wraps. How many wraps you put on is up to you, but the more wraps, the more friction. If you don’t use enough wraps, the autoblock will slip on the ropes, particularly if they are new and slippery. If you use too many wraps, the knot won’t slide easily. Make sure that the cord’s knot or the sewn overlap on the sling are not in the knot itself on the rope, but rather on the outside of the knot as in the photograph above.

Use an Autoblock Knot - 2

Use a Sling for Your Autoblock

Autoblock knots are easy and fast to tie. To tie an autoblock knot, you need either a short length of thin cord or a nylon sling. The knot can, however, be tied in an emergency situation with any piece of cord or webbing you might have on you. I’ve even seen it tied with the cord threaded on a Hexentric nut. Many climbers use a two-foot, shoulder-length, 9/16-inch-wide sling for their autoblock since it’s a common piece of gear that is always carried when climbing. It’s best to use a nylon rather than a Spectra sling. Also use narrow webbing rather than one-inch-wide webbing.

Use Cord for Your Autoblock

Other climbers, like myself, use a piece of cord attached to a carabiner that is carried specifically for tying the autoblock. Use a thin cord (best if its 5mm or 6mm in diameter) that, after the ends are tied together with a double fisherman’s knot forming a closed loop, is 18 inches long. You’ll need a 48-inch length of cord to make this loop. Remember that the thinner the cord, the greater the bite it will have on the rappel rope but the faster it will wear out. Also remember that since this cord is meant to be loaded, it is possible for the double fisherman's knot to lose its tails, that is the tail can slip into the knot and it can come undone. Always make sure you have two-inch tails on the knot. Tape the tails to the cord and you will see if slippage occurs.

 You need either a thin cord or nylon sling to tie your autoblock knot.

Check the Cord for Wear

It’s very important that you regularly check your autoblock sling or cord for wear and tear. I always look at mine after every long rappel to make sure it’s not getting too worn. Look for stitching starting to unravel on sewn slings and for wear from sliding down the rope. When it’s looking worn, retire it and use a new one.

Use an Autoblock Knot - 1

The autoblock knot, an easy-to-tie friction knot or hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord, is used as a safety back-up knot when you’re rappelling. The knot is the best back-up simply because it does two jobs exceedingly well: It locks under load and, unlike all other friction knots, it releases while still under load.

 The autoblock knot is an essential safety knot that you should use as a safety back-up knot every time you rappel.

An Essential Safety Knot for Rappelling

The knot, tied below the rappel device, slides down the rope as you rappel. If you stop, the knot tightens and cinches onto the rappel rope. When it cinches, the autoblock knot stops you from rappelling if you let go of the rappel ropes. The autoblock knot is an essential climbing safety knot—one that every climber should know how to tie and use. In Europe it's called a French Prusik knot.

Use an Autoblock When Rappelling

Rappelling is one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing since you’re relying solely on your equipment, your anchors, and your climbing smarts. It’s important to take every possible safety measure to minimize the risks of rappelling. You double check your rappel device. You double check the anchors your rope is threaded through. And you use an autoblock knot on the rope as a safety backup.

The Autoblock Keeps You in Control

The autoblock knot allows you to safely stop and hang to clear rope snags; toss the rope farther down the cliff; free twists and knots from the rope; keeps you from losing control, especially on free rappels; and stops you if you get hit by a falling rock. The autoblock also allows you to rappel slowly and stay in control, especially on free or overhanging rappels where you are not able to touch the rock.

Autoblock Knot

The autoblock knot is an easy-to-tie friction knot that is used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. The knot is tied onto the rope below the rappel device and then attached to the rappeller’s harness with a carabiner clipped into a leg loop or the belay loop. The knot, an essential safety knot that every climber should know, adds friction to the rappel descent, allowing the climber to safely stop mid-rappel to rearrange the rope or to keep from rappelling too fast and losing control.

Bachmann Knot

The Bachmann knot is a friction knot or hitch that uses a carabiner, which functions as a handle, and a cord. The cord wraps around a fixed climbing rope and the carabiner, allowing a climber to ascend the fixed rope by sliding a pair of knots up the rope. The Bachmann knot, like the Prusik knot and Klemheist knot, tightly grips the rope when it is weighted or loaded. When it is unloaded, the knot slides easily up the rope. The Bachmann knot is used for ascending fixed ropes; in emergency situations since as self-evacuation from a glacial crevasse; and in a pack hauling system with a pulley.

Klemheist Knot

The Klemheist knot, like a Prusik knot, is a friction knot or hitch which allows a climber to ascend or descend a fixed climbing rope, particularly in an emergency situation.
The knot is tied with a thin cord, usually 5mm or 6mm in diameter, onto the rope. The climber then attaches himself to the knot by clipping the cord onto his harness. Progress up a fixed rope is made by sliding the knot up the rope and then weighting or loading it with the climber’s weight. When loaded the Klemheist knot cinches onto the climbing rope, allowing the climber to progress upward. When the knot is unloaded, it loosens, allowing the climber to slide it up the rope.
The Klemheist knot is often used instead of a Prusik knot because it can be tied with a nylon sling and does not tighten on the rope as much as a Prusik knot, which allows the climber to move the knot more easily. The Klemheist knot, unlike the Prusik knot, will also slide down the rope so a climber can descend a fixed rope.

Prusik Knot

A Prusik knot, named for its inventor Dr. Karl Prusik, an Austrian mountaineer in the 1920s, is a sliding friction knot or hitch that is used by climbers to ascend a fixed rope. The knot, tied with a loop of cord attached onto the rope, is clipped to the climber's harness and then pushed up the rope by the climber. When it is weighted by the climber, the knot grips the rope, allowing the climber to ascend upward.
Prusik knots have advantages and disadvantages:

 Every climber needs to know how to tie a Prusik knot for self-rescue.

• Usually used in pairs.
• Are easy to tie.
• Don’t damage the rop
• Can slide down as well as up the rope.
• Can be tied with either a thin cord or a nylon sling.
• Are ineffective on icy ropes.
• Are prone to tighten up after being weighted or loaded.
• Are commonly used in emergency situations such as escaping a belay after an accident or ascending the rope after falling into space below an overhang.

Prusik is also used as the verb “to Prusik” meaning to ascend a rope using a Prusik knot. Also “Prusiking” is the act of ascending a fixed rope with the knots.
The cords used to tie Prusik knots are usually called “Prusik slings.”

How to Tie a Figure-8 Follow-Through Knot

The Figure-8 Follow-Through, also called the Flemish Bend and Figure-8 Trace, is the most important knot to learn as a climber. This is the best knot to tie the rope into your harness since it is the strongest climbing knot. It is also easy to check visually to make sure it is tied correctly since each side is a clone of the other. You can tell at a glance if it’s right. We use this knot, I tell my guiding clients, because it won’t come untied and only gets tighter when the rope is weighted.
To begin, pick up a loose end of the rope. Tie a single Figure 8 knot between two and three feet from the rope's end.

After tying the first Figure-8, thread the end of the rope through the harness loop between your leg loops and pass it up through the harness tie-in point on the waist belt (same waist loop that the belay loop is attached to). Snug the Figure-8 against the leg loops.
Consult your harness instructions for the exact tie-in points on the harness.

Retrace the original Figure-8 with the loose end of the rope, carefully following each part of the original knot. Afterwards tighten and dress the knot by neatening the separate parallel strands and making sure they don’t cross over each other.
You should have a leftover tail of about 18 inches for tying a backup knot. If you don’t tie a backup knot, make sure you have a floppy tail of at least 12 inches so the knot will not undo under load.

After retracing the Figure-8, you should have 15 to 20 inches of rope left. Now you will tie a Fisherman’s Backup knot. This is not a safety knot but a way to keep the original Figure-8 Follow-Through knot tight. The Fisherman’s Backup is the superior backup knot to use because it cinches tight if tied correctly.
First make sure you have about 18 free inches of tail left after tying the Figure-8. Wrap the tail rope twice around the climbing rope, then pass the free end through the coils. Tighten it against the Figure-8. You should have a three-inch tail left.
Lastly, double-check your entire knot and your partners. Now you’re ready to climb!

The 6 Most Important Knots

You don’t need to know a lot of knots to go climbing, but those you need to know, you need to know well. While there are almost 4,000 recorded knots, you can safely climb by knowing the six simple but important knots below. As your climbing career progresses you will undoubtedly learn many other specialized knots but these everyday knots are the ones you need to know backwards, forwards, and in the dark.
They’re the best knots for climbing for three reasons:

1. Easy to tie.
   
2. Hard to forget.
   
3. Easy to check visually.

Practice tying these knots with a length of rope before going to the cliff so you’ll be competent and able to look after your own safety. You need to know how to tie them all, why they’re important, and how to use each one.

1. Figure-8 Follow-Through finished with Fisherman’s Backup Knot
   This is your standard tie-in knot, connecting the rope to your harness. It’s the strongest climbing knot used.
   
   
2. Clove Hitch
   The clove hitch is an easy-to-tie knot for connecting the rope to anchors. It’s good because it doesn’t take a lot of rope and it’s easily adjusted.
   
   
3. Figure-8-on-a-Bight
   The best loop knot for tying your rope into belay anchors because it’s strong and easy to untie. Also useful for clipping someone in the middle of the rope.
   
   
4. Double Figure-8 Fisherman's Knot
   The best and strongest knot for tying two ropes together for rappelling or top-roping.
   
   
5. Prusik Knot
   An easily-tied self-rescue knot for ascending the rope in emergency situations. Learn how to tie a Prusik Knot here.
   
   
6. Münter Hitch
   An emergency belay and rappel knot that is tied onto a locking carabiner. Useful if you drop your belay device.

Knots for Climbing - All About Climbing Knots

Knots are the most essential link in your chain of climbing safety, a chain which begins with your climbing rope. Your rope is your lifeline. Your knot is your life preserver. They are the basis of your safety when you’re climbing. Learn them. Practice them. Tie them right. Your life depends on them.

Knots Do Many Tasks

Knots allow you to do many climbing safety tasks with your rope.

• Tie into the end of your rope (Figure-8 Follow-Through finished with Fisherman’s Backup Knot)
  
  
• Anchor yourself to the side of a cliff (Clove Hitch, Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight)
  
  
• Tie two ropes together to rappel down (Double Fisherman’s Knot)
  
  
• Use knots to ascend the rope if you’re in trouble (Prusik Knot)
  
  
• Improvise a safe belay (Münter Hitch)

Learn Your Knots

You need to learn how to correctly tie into the end of your rope and to tie yourself into your anchors to ensure both your safety and that of your climbing partners. If you tie your knots incorrectly, your safety is severely compromised—an undone or incorrectly tied knot can lead to serious injury or death.
Learn how to tie the recommended climbing knots and then practice tying them. You should know how to tie the most important knots—those for tying in and anchoring—with your eyes closed and in every kind of weather. Your life depends on this skill. Practice, practice, practice.

Knot Strength

Not all knots are created equal. Some are stronger than others. Those are the ones we use when we’re climbing. A knot, of course, is only as strong as the rope it’s tied into. Ropes are strongest when they are straight, without bends, kinks, and knots. Knots actually reduce the rope’s overall strength, so it’s important to tie the strongest knots for the most important safety tasks.
Most knots fall within a fairly tight range in terms of strength, generally losing between 20% and 40% of the rope’s total strength. The quality of the tied knot also can affect its strength, although tests do indicate that even a sloppy knot retains most of its holding power.
In 1974 The American Alpine Club released a definitive test of common climbing knots, revealing their strengths relative to an untied climbing rope.

• No knot 100%
• Figure-8 Follow-Through 75-80%
• Bowline 70-75%
• Double Fisherman’s 65-70%
• Water Knot 60-70%
• Clove Hitch 60-65%