Check your ego at the door and prepare to be humbled. That's the approach that works best. If you send - woohoo. If you fail - good training! :)
Highlights of my two week trip are as follows (I've gone with the euro grades as, after all, this is sport climbing):
Spray-A-Thon 8a+ - 5th shot (super steep with one tough crux. My first grade 30 on foreign soil.)
The Anti-Phil 8a - 4th shot (gently overhanging with brutal campus-snatching around a low roof)
The Beast 7c+ - 4th shot (slipperiest rock on the planet?)
Pump-O-Rama 7c+ - 2nd shot (just like Mt Coolum in Australia. Technical kneebars not an issue :)
Beer Run 7c+ - 3rd shot (my fave in Rifle, varied and amazing)
The Blocky Horror Show 7c - 3rd shot (stepped roofs, then hugging headwall)
Hang Em High 7b+ - onsight ("proud onsight dude!" pumped off my dial)
Pretty Hate Machine 7b+ - 2nd shot (slippery steep route)
Easy Skankin 7b - onsight (best sport 12b in USA they reckon!)
And here's some pics of me doing Spray-A-Thon on my final day. Big pressure!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGcy2hPXXYo-K1DRpDA05YD9Ae7fF5ZKFVf42FsHogKJgGFjxdWNrqByMNRv57kQDduJ13EArG5QTnMYmTrnXxyOXsjwxQBLaNwgII9RBNrvOxTgBnA9_MZ77oTczu4RixvFpxOF4s/s640/IMG_5758.jpg)
Getting set up for the dyno. Off the right hand undercling, you jump for that hole. Very cool move.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1zxCT_9k5eb_nDUYDeKZ_4ybc7GpRVPoyERpTEf6pJADjTf5JQdS0Zh2lGl7ZMXIhCbxXlsqdNkuU9mgiTqV3CEnlHOp-1vTTlfEZczOB4CGrPHp1WWi_QLjtNOu5qPKq20-bgpV-/s640/IMG_5762.jpg)
Clipping in the crack section.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhyK7OBoqNaicCXDB2sxiNjSD2qnbrz_l3lFl0P5yOkQj_cr2VqWGvfW4Ff6hSkDLp-yiGMdO1W9XDFDdUnSgD-KBJ6Dy6zAI6bammilTkdqlvshFzB1SIUmk8OBJigxUwz_D-XNK/s400/IMG_5767.jpg)
Double kneebars (sort-of) before the first bulge. I figured out some great beta for this bulge that even the locals now use. Energy conservation is all about using momentum!
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_UaBt68mlc3Fp1FOsTiZD6DOn2mXKtrW56l2rTgOCXHsZOFePMc63CW_0Tl3pdfCU0n7SYPH3z3hUK8by6FopEhWl-OeJFU7V1PI5g0Qt_VEe95LEbX8MCWKCxl8yl1aixF9KMJN/s400/IMG_5775.jpg)
The crux move! Might not look much, but you're reaching left hand for a hold known as the "pencil". But I reckon a pencil would be a better edge.
So thanks Rifle, you were great. I love you.
All pics © Jason Huston 2010