In 2001, I was climbing a big wall in Zion National Park with two of our former guides. Prodigal Son is an "easy" aid route that ascends the Northeast Face of Angels Landing. As it was late in the Fall and it was getting dark early, we elected to fix the first aid pitches and then complete the ascent to the top on the following day.
On the second day of the climb we made our way to the base of the wall in the dark. The approach was not pleasant. We had to forge the freezing Virgin River at 5am. And then we each began to jug the fixed lines with mechanical ascenders.
For some reason, I was the last person to climb the ropes. As I climbed up the second rope, dawn was breaking and it was much easier to see. And what I saw was terrifying...
Near the top of the second line, there was a hint of white peaking through a seriously damaged rope sheath. The line was core shot. And I was below the damage!
I quickly climbed through the damaged section of rope and clipped into the anchor. Safe.
Three of us climbed up that rope on jumars. The bouncing motion of our movement and the dynamic nature of the rope caused it to repeatedly rub on the sandstone, allowing the coarse stone to saw through the sheath.
Ultimately, we finished the wall. But that particular incident has stuck with me for years. Indeed, it has made me extremely cautious while aid climbing and constantly concerned about sharp edges while free climbing.
Recently the rope manufacturer Beal, revealed a new technology that they are calling Uni Core. The concept is that the core and the sheath are integrated and that it will be much harder for rope damage to have a catastrophic effect.
Certainly the catastrophic effect of the knife on the rope would have been mitigated by knots in the rope. Aid climbers on jumars are taught to knot the rope as they climb for just such a possibility. And indeed, in my situation back in Zion, had the sheath completely come apart, I would have been shaken up, but okay. I had placed knots in the rope.
I haven't used one of these ropes yet and have no idea how well they handle. But as this is a major jump in rope safety, I thought it important to discuss it here.
Route Profile: Epinephrine
Many climbers consider Red Rock Canyon's Epinephrine (5.9 IV+) to be one of the best routes of its grade in the world. With over fifteen pitches of climbing, Epinephrine is a phenomenal route that places one in an incredible position high above the Black Velvet Canyon.
The chimneys on Epinephrine are behind the pillar at the bottom of the wall.
Many look at the moderate 5.9 grade and believe that this route will be a walk in the park. The reality is that Epi -- as the locals call it -- is a route that includes significant difficulties that one doesn't often encounter on a regular day out at the crags. Indeed, the route is known for one major feature: a long 5.9 chimney system.
The first third of Epinephrine is dominated by chimneys. These chimneys are incredibly smooth inside. Some have even equated them to glass. It often feels that the inch at a time gains inside the chimneys might be lost at any moment from a mild slip or fall. Difficult passage inside the chimneys are exacerbated by the fact that the route is so big that a pack is absolutely necessary. To move through the chimneys one must drag their pack between their legs.
The last third of the route climbs a massive mid-fifth class ramp. One climbs pitch after pitch after pitch of easy terrain that slowly allows altitude to be attained. Finally after traversing an exposed tree ledge, one finds himself at the base of an easy scramble which leads to the top of Velvet Peak.
Red Rock Canyon is famous for its moderate (5.6-5.9) multi-pitch routes. There are literally hundreds of them. At the upper end of moderate climbing, Epinephrine stands out as a spectacular and unforgettable adventure.
The chimneys on Epinephrine are behind the pillar at the bottom of the wall.The first third of Epinephrine is dominated by chimneys. These chimneys are incredibly smooth inside. Some have even equated them to glass. It often feels that the inch at a time gains inside the chimneys might be lost at any moment from a mild slip or fall. Difficult passage inside the chimneys are exacerbated by the fact that the route is so big that a pack is absolutely necessary. To move through the chimneys one must drag their pack between their legs.
Climbing the Chimneys on Epinephrine
A climber in a chimney on Epinephrine.
Once the first third of the route is completed, the difficulties ease, but there is still over a thousand feet to climb. The second third of the route ascends an exposed headwall which drops off nearly a thousand feet. There is a great deal of 5.9 terrain in this section of the climb, but the climbing feels significantly easier than that of the chimneys. The 5.9 climbing in the central part of the route is "normal" 5.9. In other words, it feels like any 5.9 that one might find on one of the shorter routes in Red Rock. This section goes significantly faster than the first section.
A climber in a chimney on Epinephrine.
The last third of the route climbs a massive mid-fifth class ramp. One climbs pitch after pitch after pitch of easy terrain that slowly allows altitude to be attained. Finally after traversing an exposed tree ledge, one finds himself at the base of an easy scramble which leads to the top of Velvet Peak.
Red Rock Canyon is famous for its moderate (5.6-5.9) multi-pitch routes. There are literally hundreds of them. At the upper end of moderate climbing, Epinephrine stands out as a spectacular and unforgettable adventure.
Wilderness Navigation - An Overview
There are many parts to wilderness navigation, but four tools stand out as being the most important. First, a good topographical map. Second, a compass. Third, an altimeter. And fourth a GPS unit. Each of these items is a complex tool that takes a great deal of time and energy to use effectively.
The map, the compass, the altimeter and the GPS must all be used in conjunction to one another. A climber should never depend solely on one of these items, but must practice using them as complimentary tools.
The following video, made by the owner of Midwest Mountaineering, Rod Johnson, is a brief overview of the components required for successful wilderness navigation.
The map, the compass, the altimeter and the GPS must all be used in conjunction to one another. A climber should never depend solely on one of these items, but must practice using them as complimentary tools.
The best time to practice with navigation tools is when you need them the least. When the weather is good and it is possible to see everything, then there is little need for these. But when the weather is good, it is also possible to see what real-life features look like on a map. Understanding what the real-world looks like vs. the world in a white-out when you are completely reliant on your understanding of your tools is incredibly important. If you can get your systems worked out in perfect weather, then you'll be ready for it when things are less than perfect...
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